What Materials Are Needed To Replace A Roof – Considering that the national average roof replacement cost is nearly $8,000, an important question is how often to replace your roof.
Many factors affect this number, and there are things you can do to inspect and maintain your roof to get the most out of its life.
What Materials Are Needed To Replace A Roof
To get a general idea of when to replace your roof, consider the materials you want to use. Knowing the life expectancy of each material can influence your choice when evaluating roofing replacement options.
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Be aware that the longer the service life, the higher the initial cost of the roof, the higher the cost of installation and materials. Find out what’s right for you by working with a professional roofing company.
Maintaining your roof will help it last as long as possible. Regular roof inspections are important to avoid premature residential roof replacement. There are key things that you should look for on a regular basis.
Part of the roof inspection involves looking from the inside out. Check your attic for signs of water ingress:
These are all signs that water is somehow seeping through the roofing material and into your home. Find the source of the leak, the sooner you find and fix minor problems, the longer you will keep your roof.
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Look for missing or loose shingles or tiles. Replace small damaged spots before they expose surrounding shingles and tiles to the elements below.
Look for signs of twisting, creasing or breakage. Especially with asphalt shingles, if you notice a lot of debris from the roofing material, you may need to consider replacing the roof.
If you have a metal roof, look for signs of rust. This means that water is seeping through the metal seal and that part will need to be repaired. Make sure you do it right and get the rust off, make sure it’s re-sealed and not just painted.
Structural problems in your home can damage your roof. If you notice any signs of sagging, repair or call for help immediately.
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Being vigilant is key to knowing how often to replace your roof. Find out the lifespan of your materials and look for signs of damage or age. If you are worried that you do not understand each other, consult a professional. Follow along as we tear the house apart from the foundation to the ridge. The article includes detailed photos, drawings and clearly written instructions for each step of the job.
Don’t worry – roofing is hard work. There is no hiding from the elements. You are not afraid of heights and should be very fit. Before you decide to put a roof on your house, try this: step outside on the stairs and onto the roof. If you can’t comfortably walk on it, hire a professional. If you pass this first test, go to the woodshed or home center and throw a bundle of shingles over your shoulder. Imagine carrying that load up the stairs…many, many times.
If you are still unsure about how to put a roof on your house, why not give it a try? You can skip a lot of the heavy lifting by having a roofing supplier install the shingles on your roof. Make sure you distribute the load evenly along the entire length of the top of the roof. However, don’t put shingles on the roof if you still have to tear off two layers of old shingles—it may be too much for your joists.
Once you’ve obtained permission (if necessary) and safely cleared the roof, nail the gutter flush with the eaves.
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Heavy rain and/or wind-blown snow can push water up and down even properly installed shingles. Even worse are ice dams (frozen water/snow that forms at the edges of a roof) which can wreak havoc by allowing water to run down the eaves below and then into your home. To protect against such leakage, use a self-adhesive waterproof backing (“snow barrier”) that adheres tightly to the bare roof and seals around the pierced nails. Purchase them from roofing supply companies or home centers. In regions with severe climates, most building codes require it to be applied 3 to 6 feet above the east-east direction (at least 2 feet for an exterior wall). Call your building inspector for local information.
Cover the rest of the roof with base no. 15 saturated with asphalt (some codes may require #30). Each layer overlaps the layer below by at least 2 cm. Follow this step by nailing the edge of the gutter along the rafters (sides of the roof) to the bottom surface. Just like you did with the flash, always wrap the top part over the bottom parts. Felt keeps the roofing dry before the shingles are installed, protects from wind and rain when the shingles fail, and increases fire resistance.
Next, find the center of the roof at the top and the eaves, then draw a vertical line with chalk. Most pros use this line to start the ladder, working left and right on the racks. Shingle manufacturers may recommend starting with the left edge of the rack, so check package recommendations.
For the first row of shingles, called the starter layer or strip, cut a tab from the three shingle and attach it on the east side with self-sealing tape on the opposite side. Make sure this row has a slight overhang (1/4 to 3/8 inch) over the edge of the gutter. The initial layer protects the roof, filling the gaps under the cutouts and connecting the next series of steps (the first layer). Glue on the original course closes the first full tab.
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Finally, lay the first layer of shingles directly on top and flush with the original layer. Use four roofing nails per shingle (six nails in high wind areas) as directed on the package. Once this path is established, you can start drawing horizontal chalk lines across the roof to ensure straight lines. Be sure to place 5 inches of the shingles tab where the bottom edge of the tab meets the top of the cutout.
It is impossible to properly install new siding and underlayment without first tearing off the old roof. When pulling off existing shingles, remove old nails or straighten them. A protruding nail will tear holes in your new shingles. If there are movable objects near your home and you are concerned that you could be injured, move them. Invest in some large tarps to protect your plants and landscape and catch the thousands of nails that fall from your roof. The old self-adhesive backing made of ice and water may be completely impossible to remove, but it’s okay if you want to keep it in place. And if possible, place the rental dumpster near the house so you can dump from the roof right into the old shingles.
Metal gutters are usually not necessary (check with your local building official), but they add a nice look to the edges of the roof, prevent shingles from tipping over, and keep water from running directly under the shingles.
Attach the drip edge that covers the frame to the eaves before installing the spacer. The entire length of the fascia may not be perfectly straight, so do not cross the line; Simply press the edge of the gutter against the mask and attach it to the roof from above with roofing nails. Nail it every two feet.
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After you have finished installing the base, install the gutter at the end of the roof gables. Start at the underside of the gable and overlap the gutter edge sections by a few inches as you work your way up toward the roof (see Figure A). Cut the edge of the eaves to the desired size with sheet metal scissors.
When it comes to roofing, even the best safety equipment is no substitute for common sense and good judgment. Here are some tips for safe roofing work:
Protect roofs from snowpack and windy rain with self-adhesive snow and water underlay. Unfold the base and remove the top half of the plastic base.
Make sure the base is smooth before nailing the top edge. Then remove the bottom half of the base.
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Apply the second coat as before, using the guide on the bases to get the correct overlap. When a snow dam forms on the roof (usually due to poor attic insulation/ventilation), the snow and water can seep through the shingles and back into the house. Also, strong winds can carry rainwater under the shingles. Self-adhesive roofing (often called “ice and water” underlayment) can prevent this because it sticks to the roofing material to seal out the water. It also seals around the nail and prevents water from escaping through the nail pores.
The roll of self-adhesive backing has a plastic backing that prevents the material from sticking to itself. The lining separates from the middle towards the bottom. Align the bottom edge of the roll with the outside of the drainage edge. Remove and attach the back of the top base to the roll
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